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Here are the instructions how to enable JavaScript in your web browser. Locals drive as fast as noghtlife can run, with thongs on. But then, what's the rush? And round here coconuts drop right onto the bitumen, so it pays to look up.

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Most people get around Aitutaki on cc scooters — children as young as one, and as plentiful as three, hottie Cook Islands african at nightlife nightlkfe to mothers who drive with so little urgency that frangipanis remain permanently wedged behind their ear.

You can smell the coconut oil and the sweet scent of tiare as they pass.

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The first time I came here, I rode a rental scooter to the police shed in the tiny village of Arutunga, the closest thing Aitutaki has to a town. I told the island's policeman I'd come for a driving test. He looked me over: I did, I told.

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Coming to Aitutaki and hiring a car is to miss the point of being. Don't disregard all the in-between bits. Like the smell of backyard burn-offs as you ride Polynesia's obsession with tidiness makes grandparents seem slobbish by comparison.

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And the very first glimpse of blue lagoon through coconut trees, hottie Cook Islands african at nightlife the hen and her chicks you'll wait on as they cross the roadway in front; and the coconut crabs which scamper down holes njghtlife from the road opposite the big lagoon. Sex Dating Casual Friends real w girls the burst of frangipani and tiare Maori the Cook Islands' national gardenia that's so sickly sweet you can taste it at the back of your throat especially on warm, sticky evenings when qfrican waft of it practically shimmers in the air as you drive by villages made up hottie Cook Islands african at nightlife entirely of flowers.

And the people: On a scooter, you're much closer to.

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Everybody waves, one evening I stop to take notes by the side of the main road and a concerned local pulls over to ask nightlifd I'm OK. Others arrive on buses driven by locals in heavy suits, hair slicked sideways with coconut oil and brylcreem.

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The services are conducted in Polynesian, though it's the singing I'm here for; I sit outside the oldest church in the Cook Islands built afridan in Arutungawith its metre-thick limestone coral walls, as their voices carry out hottie Cook Islands african at nightlife the lagoon below me. The feast afterwards inspires devotion; guests are always welcomed to tuck in. I arrive in Aitutaki as a six-month-long mexican women black men breaks.

Lonely Planet founder Tony Wheeler calls this lagoon the most beautiful lagoon in the world.

Even perennially hotti travel author Paul Theroux says Aitutaki's lagoon is the largest, and most beautiful, in Oceania. By submitting your email you are agreeing to Fairfax Media's terms and conditions and privacy policy.

It's shaped like an equilateral triangle with sides of 12 kilometres.

There's 14 tiny islands motu in it, all but one afrucan these are entirely uninhabited. The BBC series Shipwrecked was filmed here inTV producer Mark Burnett conceived the idea for Survivor from that series; eventually Survivor came here inincidentally, one of Survivor 's highest-rating years.

As I head out on a lagoon cruise, the rain clears. hottie Cook Islands african at nightlife

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There's numerous cruises you can take and there's sailing, stand-up paddling, bone-fishing and kite surfing to try. When we arrive at One Foot Island on the lagoon's south-eastern perimeter, I walk for half hottie Cook Islands african at nightlife kilometre along a submerged sandbank, then swim on my own private sand spit called Paradise, which disappears with the tide.

I haven't written about Aitutaki before; though I've been coming here for two decades. There's too few places like Aitutaki left in the world, and I'd opted not to share this one. But in recent times, Aitutaki has become a beacon for honeymooners from across the globe.

Each time I return, I prepare myself for it, but Aitutaki still seems to belong to a bygone era. It can be a little dorky, I think, people wear button-up shirts open to below the chest with flower prints, the only radio station plays the same endless medley of twangy ukulele island songs. And even though Aitutaki has several hottie Cook Islands african at nightlife the highest-rated restaurants in Polynesia now, the best meal I have all trip is the fresh-caught tuna served off the barbecue on the lagoon cruise.

My favourite bar on the island's still the same one it was in The bar at Aitutaki Village I knew it as the Samade Bar isn't much more than an old wood shed built a metre from the lagoon.

A few hottie Cook Islands african at nightlife metres north, the horny women Derry nz at the Boat Shed stare at some point Islqnds the horizon like they always have, characters borrowed surely from a Hemingway novel.

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And locals at the Deep Sea Fishing Club near the island's tiny harbour, always welcome a new pair of ears for stories they've told a hundred times. If you're a fan of formality, I suggest you try.

Aitutakians can pull it off — I'm called sir for a full day at the Pacific Resort — but a high-pitched Polynesian giggle is only ever a joke away. And local women will soon insist on "auntie", regardless of how old you are. Don't use the hotel safe, these folk don't steal. Greet them with kia orana if you'd like, but they'd rather you asked them how they are, like you want to know.

There's hottie Cook Islands african at nightlife to do on Aitutaki — from lagoon cruising to cultural tours, and from whale watching to deep sea fishing. But don't stack your itinerary; on Aitutaki you need lots of time for nothing, because there's sure a lot of nothing on Aitutaki.

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